I love clothes that look timeless - when you can't tell whether they're from the 1940s or the 1980s or bought from the high-street last week. Duffle coats have looked almost identical since they first cropped up as military-wear in the 1820s. You can't get much more timeless than that.
Last year, I decided I wanted to get serious about replacing my much-loved childhood duffle and invest some money in a really good 'buy it for life' version. One that I will hopefully wear and mend and love for many years to come.
I owned a few duffle coats in my teenage years and really enjoyed wearing them. They all eventually left my closet for one reason or another - primarily due to changing sizes, but also because they had details that dated them and made me grow tired of them more quickly (odd silky linings, weird cuffs, etc). They were all from the cheaper end of the high-street, too, and left a lot to be desired in terms of fit and fabric.
After looking at a lot of images on Pinterest and reading some reviews of different brands, I came up with a list of criteria for my 'perfect' duffle coat.
- 100% wool material (no wool blends)
- raglan sleeves (because my shoulders are narrow)
- dark navy blue colour
- no lining (I hate linings, especially silky ones)
- oversized, boxy fit
- toggle or button closure only (no zips)
- preferably plain cuffs (without buttons or straps)
- a proper hood, that actually covers my head
- long, knee-length at least
Overall, I wanted something that was practical and hardy enough to wear everyday, but luxurious enough to be cosy and comforting.
Heritage
My first port of call was well-known heritage brands Gloverall and Original Montgomery. I tried coats from both and they were very similar. I wasn't keen on the blended wool fabric, which felt too stiff and smooth for my liking. The Original Montgomery version had a zip (not detailed in either the photo or the description on their website), which I really didn't like.
Both had a plaid lining, which I felt nervous about. Although I liked the way it looked in theory, I knew I'd prefer a plain interior in the long run.
In both brands, the fit was the main problem. Both had shoulder seams, which were way too big for me and looked ridiculous. This is a perennial problem for me as I have very narrow shoulders, which is why I gravitate to items with raglan sleeves. The women's styles also seemed much slimmer in the body than I wanted - they didn't have that timeless oversized feel.
I would have liked to try the Original Monty style from Gloverall, which looks a bit more boxy, has a plain inner, and features nice off-centre toggles. Ultimately, though, I think it's overpriced (£400!) for something that isn't 100% wool.
A note about shopping online with Original Montgomery: orders from them take a while, which to be fair, they're up front about. I think I waited about two weeks to get my item. They send parcels within the UK using a service called UK Mail, which is utterly terrible (search UK Mail on Twitter and you'll find many horror stories). Their returns process thankfully uses Royal Mail, but it isn't free and it cost me about £15 to send a coat back to them. Their customer service is okay - I struggled to get a response over email but they were helpful over the phone. Their refunds process was quick, which was good.
I didn't try any of the coats from London Tradition, but their styles look similar to Gloverall and Original Montgomery, and may be a good option for some.
Burberry, although laughably beyond my price range, also deserves a mention here. Their duffle coats are stunning, particularly the 'Greenwich' in navy blue. Those giant toggles are to die for.
Both had a plaid lining, which I felt nervous about. Although I liked the way it looked in theory, I knew I'd prefer a plain interior in the long run.
In both brands, the fit was the main problem. Both had shoulder seams, which were way too big for me and looked ridiculous. This is a perennial problem for me as I have very narrow shoulders, which is why I gravitate to items with raglan sleeves. The women's styles also seemed much slimmer in the body than I wanted - they didn't have that timeless oversized feel.
I would have liked to try the Original Monty style from Gloverall, which looks a bit more boxy, has a plain inner, and features nice off-centre toggles. Ultimately, though, I think it's overpriced (£400!) for something that isn't 100% wool.
A note about shopping online with Original Montgomery: orders from them take a while, which to be fair, they're up front about. I think I waited about two weeks to get my item. They send parcels within the UK using a service called UK Mail, which is utterly terrible (search UK Mail on Twitter and you'll find many horror stories). Their returns process thankfully uses Royal Mail, but it isn't free and it cost me about £15 to send a coat back to them. Their customer service is okay - I struggled to get a response over email but they were helpful over the phone. Their refunds process was quick, which was good.
I didn't try any of the coats from London Tradition, but their styles look similar to Gloverall and Original Montgomery, and may be a good option for some.
Burberry, although laughably beyond my price range, also deserves a mention here. Their duffle coats are stunning, particularly the 'Greenwich' in navy blue. Those giant toggles are to die for.
High-street
Although duffle coats don't really go 'out of style', they're not really 'in fashion' at the moment, either. As a result, there weren't many options to choose from on the high-street.
I've had duffle coats from Topshop and Uniqlo in the past. They were both okay, but I wanted something better quality and with more longevity. I did find a nice buttoned version in French Connection, but I wasn't sure about the neckline the first time I tried it on, and it sold out before I could go back for another look.
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